How to strip and re-varnish an old wood floor
Stripping and re-varnishing an old wood floor is one of the most rewarding renovation projects you can undertake at home. A floor that looks tired, worn, or discoloured can be transformed completely by returning it to bare timber and applying a fresh finish. The process requires time, effort, and the right equipment, but the result is a floor that looks as good as — or better than — when it was first laid.
Assessing the Floor Before You Start
Before committing to a strip and re-varnish, assess the condition of the floor carefully. Check that there is enough timber remaining to sand. Solid hardwood floors can typically be sanded several times over their life. Engineered wood floors can be sanded once or twice, depending on the thickness of the hardwood veneer — boards with a 3mm or thinner veneer may not have enough material for a safe sand. If in doubt, use a moisture meter probe in an inconspicuous joint to measure the veneer thickness, or consult a professional floor sanding company.
Inspect the boards for any structural issues that need addressing before sanding begins: squeaky or springing boards should be screwed down, loose nails punched below the surface, significant gaps between boards filled, and any damaged boards replaced. These repairs are far easier to carry out before the floor is sanded than after.
Equipment Needed
Stripping and re-varnishing a floor requires the following equipment, most of which can be hired from tool hire companies:
- Drum or belt sander — for the main floor area
- Edge sander — for perimeter areas the drum sander cannot reach
- Detail sander or hand scraper — for tight corners and around door frames
- Vacuum cleaner — for thorough dust removal between each stage
- Tack cloths — for final dust pickup before varnishing
- Floor varnish in the chosen sheen level, plus brushes or applicator pads
- Sandpaper in progressive grits (40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 180, 220)
- Dust mask and knee pads
The Sanding Process
Begin with the coarsest grit necessary to remove the old finish effectively. For a floor with multiple coats of old varnish or paint, start at 40 grit. For a floor with only light surface wear and an existing finish in reasonable condition, 60 grit may be sufficient. Sand the main area with the drum sander working along the grain, and follow immediately with the edge sander at the same grit around the perimeter.
Progress through grit stages: 40 to 60 to 80 to 100 to 120. Between each stage, vacuum thoroughly. The final stage before varnishing should be 150 or 180 grit, leaving the surface smooth and uniformly scratched at a fine level. After the final sanding, vacuum the entire floor, wipe down with a tack cloth, and allow any residual dust to settle before applying varnish.
Applying Fresh Varnish
Apply a minimum of three coats of floor varnish. The first coat on bare timber often soaks in and appears patchy — this is normal. Allow to dry fully, then sand lightly with 220 grit to remove raised grain and dust nibs before the second coat. Sand again lightly between the second and third coats.
Apply each coat thinly and evenly, working in the direction of the grain. Allow the recommended drying time between coats and ensure adequate ventilation throughout. Keep foot traffic off the floor for at least 24 hours after the final coat, allow 48 to 72 hours before replacing furniture, and keep rugs off for at least two weeks while the varnish cures fully.
The transformation that results from a well-executed strip and re-varnish is dramatic. What looked like a floor in need of replacement often reveals beautiful, characterful timber beneath the worn surface — a result that is well worth the effort involved.
